FAQ's
|
Where can one get the colour cards for your products?
All our colour cards are available at our sales points with the HGMIX mixing system.
The HGMIX mixing system enables the preparation of the selected colour shade based on a large number of colour cards, such as: Terra, Monicolor 720, Eurotrend, RAL, NCS and several others.
The colour cards can also be obtained from different professionals we work with (painters, facade builders). For individual products, some shades can also be seen on our websites.
I am renovating a 30-year old apartment, which I want to repaint and later on also paint a couple of the walls with stronger shades. The walls do not have any particularities (no large stains or mould). We are expecting a baby so we would like to use a paint with no unpleasant odour or harmful substances. Which paint can you recommend?
To paint indoor surfaces, we recommend SPEKTRA interior wall paints which are available in different qualities and shades. Considering the fact there will be little children living in the house, we recommend SPEKTRA PREMIUM interior wall paint which enables wet wiping. The paint is highly vapor permeable, has good hiding power and a beautiful matt appearance, and you can order it in the colour shade you want. If you are happy with white surface and with a coating resistant to dry wiping, we recommend using SPEKTRA Extra, which is easy to apply and provides good hiding power.
Each paint has also a certain scent of raw materials - acrylic binders, which is typical for all water-based paints. The scent will remain in the room for a few days at most, until the coating is thoroughly dry. The paint is not harmful and is made in accordance with the latest standards of the European legislation.
You can find all technical information about the products on our websites.
We are soon planning to paint our newly-built apartment. As we would like to have coloured walls in some of the rooms, I would like to know where we could get colour cards of a bigger size than those available at the stores. It is difficult to get an idea of how everything will look like, as the colour cards you can get at the store are very small and you cannot transfer them to your apartment. Do you have any advice on this matter? What do you think about coloured ceilings?
Firstly, let us give you some tips to make your colour shade selection easier.
As far as colour samples are concerned, they are only available in the colour card sizes. The size of the sample is sometimes too small for us to be able to imagine how the final result on the wall will look like. That is why painters, architects and regular customers sometimes buy two liters of paint, with which they first paint a test wall in the room.
Regarding choosing the intensity of the colour shade: if you wish to have a strong, yet not brash shade, choose intensity F, G and H from the scale, if using the Helios Monicolor 720 colour card. In the second and third row, the shades are light, however, they look intense enough when actually painted on the wall. Lighter shades can then be combined with very intense shades in order to brighten up the room.
Coloured ceilings are a matter of taste, but do not go overboard with intense shades as they can make the ceiling optically lower and make the ambiance “heavy”, and vice-versa. In practice, the G113 shade (cappuccino) can be very nicely used as a base shade instead of using white (walls and ceilings). Even though this shade does not look special on the colour card, it makes a very elegant effect and does not clash with any of the colours of wooden objects or other elements in the house. Furthermore, you can combine it with any other shade in order to make a subtle transition to more intensive shades. The transition from white to more intensive shades can generate a contrast that is too strong and irritating.
Some more lighter shades which look nice on walls, and some strong ones to brighten up the room are: G058, G095, G079 in combination with G058, G021, G015; J082 in combination with J021; H084 in combination with z J122, K138, N125, S003, K015, L043.
For additional information you can call our technical-support service.
I have a room that is quite long and narrow. How should I paint it to make it look wider?
We forwarded the question to our technical consultants which usually provide advice on the matter, however, it is difficult to give an accurate answer without seeing the room.
In general it applies that dark shades make the room visually smaller, whereas light shades make it bigger. Therefore, we recommend painting the long sides of the wall with light shades, and the short ones with dark shades. This is the basic and simplest solution to visually broaden the room.
We used some kind of epoxy resin and sand for the treatment of the plinth of our house 25 years ago. The surface is level and rough, without grease. Unfortunately, there is already a lot of damage and the paint (light brown) is not equal either. What kind of paint to use for renovation?
Epoxy resins are not a material that can be used for outdoor sun exposure, as epoxy itself is UV-unstable in direct sunlight, so we assume you have something similar to a mosaic that contains marble sands in the acrylic binder.
We suggest testing the product on a small surface first. Buy SPEKTRA acrylic impregnation and SPEKTRA acrylic paint for concrete in the desired shade and follow the procedure below:
1. wash the surfaces with water,
2. impregnate the washed and dried surfaces with SPEKTRA acrylic impregnation, thinned with water in a 1:1 ratio (minimum 6 hours of drying),
3. then, following an interval of at least 8 hours, paint the surfaces with SPEKTRA acrylic paint for concrete.
Hello! I intend to paint/protect the exterior part of my beehives in the spring. The beehives will not be in the bee house, but outdoors, exposed to the rain, sun, wind and cold. I would like to know which coating you would recommend for a good protection of wood, which would at the same time have a minimum effect on the sensitive bees and their products.
In your case, we recommend using the environmentally-friendly water-based coating for wood, BORI.
The beehive and hive panels should not be coated with products containing biocides. We only recommend using the shaded BORI woodstain in 3 coats. The drying time between individual coats should be at least 3 hours.
Before assembling the beehives, we recommend coating all transversal cuts with BORI woodstain, as this is where wood absorbs the most water which consequently leads to the drying of the paint.
It is very important that the wood is dry before the painting.
What to use to paint hallways in our new house? We would like to use a brown colour shade.
As you did not specify the desired intensity of the brown shade, we recommend two products.
If the house is new, we assume is has thermal insulation and that you do not have any problems with thermal bridges. In this case, we recommend using SPEKTRA LATEX MATT. All more intense and darker brown shades are sensitive to the touch of a finger as they leave white spots on the surface. As the paint has a smooth film, it is sufficient to wipe the surface with a moist cloth only.
For light brown shades, you could also use the interior SPEKTRA PREMIUM washable paint.
What can we do with old paints and lacquers? Can they be disposed somewhere free of charge? Where in Ljubljana and its surroundings is it possible to dispose such waste? Can it be returned to the manufacturers?
In Ljubljana, and elsewhere as well, the Snaga company organizes a free-of-charge collection of hazardous waste (paints, lacquers, batteries, different oils, etc.). For more information, please contact the company.
If you have Helios paints left, you can also contact us.
I made bedroom walls from plasterboards As the putty is supposedly not vapour permeable, I only applied it to the joints between the panels, not on the entire panels. What kind of coating should I use to coat panels to enable maximum absorption and release of moisture?
We recommend puttying the entire wall surface - SPEKTRA interior putty contains a small quantity of binder, so it is still highly vapour permeable.
After puttying, we recommend using SPEKTRA Extra interior wall paint. This paint is highly vapor permeable, has a high level of hiding power and is very easy to apply. The paint can also be shaded in over 3000 shades at all selling points with the HGMIX mixing system.
Can IDEAL 2K polyurethane parquet lacquer DS (glossy) be harmful for pregnant women living in freshly lacquered rooms? Are there any standards or data on their harmful effect?
For all decorative lacquers and paints, such as IDEAL 2K polyurethane parquet lacquer DS, we use raw materials which are allowed for general customer use in the EU.
In accordance with the chemical legislation, for purposes of protecting the user’s health and protecting the population and the environment, each product (lacquer, paint) must be labelled in accordance with the identified hazards.
What should I use to fill the holes caused by screws? Is one coat of SPEKTRA interior wall paint enough if I only want to refresh the paint in my apartment?
In your case, we recommend the following renovation procedure:
1. fix the hole or other damage with SPEKTRA interior putty, which should be sanded once dry
2. impregnate all surfaces that you plan to paint with SPEKTRA acrylic impregnation, thinned with water in a 1:3 ratio,
3. after the surfaces are impregnated and dry, paint them with interior wall paint SPEKTRA Extra which has a high level of hiding power. If you are skilled at painting, this paint will be enough for you to finish the work with one coat. Otherwise, paint the surface one more time.
We would like to refresh the hazelnut colour of our 20-year old plastic blinds which have become completely discoloured as a result of sun exposure. Is there a coating suitable for this purpose?
Painting plastics can be problematic due to poor paint adhesion. Our sales programme includes TESSAROL universal primer UNI which is used to paint hard PVC surfaces.
You can apply TESSAROL enamel, TESSAROL professional enamel or TESSAROL acrylic enamel on top of this paint.
Can TESSAROL enamel be used to coat the exterior sides of beehives?
For the protection of external walls of beehives and hive panels, we recommend a systematic protection with TESSAROL acrylic paints, whereas the beehive interior should not be protected with any type of coating.
TESSAROL acrylic paints are top coats on the basis of water-based binders, they dry quickly, have no unpleasant odour, and can be thinned with water if required, which is also used to clean the tools after use. TESSAROL acrylic primer for wood and TESSAROL acrylic enamel (ready-made shades) are compliant with SIST EN 71-3 and SIST EN 71-9 certificates (suitable for toys).
Apply 1 coat of TESSAROL acrylic primer for wood onto a suitably prepared surface, and sand it after 4 – 6 hours, after which apply 2 more coats of TESSAROL acrylic enamel in the desired shade. The second enamel coat should be applied 8-10 hours after the first one.
The working conditions also play an important part – the temperature of the air, the paint and the surface must be at least 8 °C, otherwise the film will not be formed. Air humidity must be below 80% in order to obtain a well-cured coating film. Coatings can be applied with a brush made of synthetic fibres or with a microfibre roller.
Thanks to their quick drying, when protecting beehives with TESSAROL acrylic paints, for example, you can put the bees in the beehives as early as one day after the last coating is dry.
Exterior walls of beehives can also be protected with TESSAROL paints (primer, enamel), which are “classic” solvent-based paints. Due to a longer drying time, each coat should follow after one day, and the bees can be put in the beehive after one week, when the coatings are completely dry.
Apply 1 coat of TESSAROL primer for wood onto a suitably prepared surface, sand it, and then apply 2 more coats of TESSAROL enamel in the desired shade.
Important: While the use of biocide-containing impregnation is highly discouraged for beehives and beehive panels, it is safe to use biocide agents on other wooden parts of the bee house. Why? Biocides are only found in impregnation agents that are absorbed deep into the wood, and are always coated with one of the surface coatings (primer for wood and enamel). This enables the biocides to act where they are needed (inside the wood) and prevent the formation of wood pests. At the same time, the bees and other living beings avoid coming into contact with them.
When protecting the bee house, it is of course possible to choose the safest option by not using any impregnation agents at all. However, the wood may be infested with fungi.
Which coating should I use to coat the parquet after sanding or prior to lacquering, if I want to have a dark, wallnut colour parquet?
Before applying IDEAL 2K polyurethane parquet lacquer DS, you can use BORI thin-layer woodstain to stain the floor in the selected shade (application with a sponge and wiping with a cotton cloth). Following the application of the woodstain, wait at least 2 days for it to dry completely, and only then apply the lacquer.
I want to paint the dining room walls which are currently white. I would like to have a non-uniform coat in two or three shades - the colours should be iridescent. I heard that the paint should be applied in different coats, with a large round brush. The final result is the appearance of an old wall. How should I proceed and with products do you recommend? I would like to protect the walls with a matt lacquer in the end. Is this doable?
Our range of products under the SPEKTRA brand offers several decorative techniques that will enable you to conjure up a modern, old-looking, antique or maybe retro appearance of the walls. Some decorative techniques are more difficult and require the skills of a professional painter. If you do have some artistic and craft skills, you will be able to use some of these techniques by yourself as well.
Should anything be unclear, you can contact our technical-support service.
Several decades ago, patterns were painted onto our wall with a home-made paint using a roller, and unfortunately I do not know which ingredients were used for it. The patterns can still be seen through several layers of paint that were applied since then. We are planning to repaint the walls. Which procedure do you recommend that would cover these patterns completely? Is sanding required?
Years ago, patterns were applied on walls using a paint that used to be made of dry paint, eggs and similar ingredients.
If such patterns are coated with water-based coatings, all water-soluble ingredients are transmitted to the surface in the same way as nicotine. Therefore, we recommend using a solvent-based paint to cover water-soluble stains. We thus recommend using SPEKTRA anti-nicotine paint which blocks water-soluble patterns and does not transmit them to the surface. No prior preparation of the surface with impregnation is required, and the paint can be applied directly onto the wall using at least two coats. The paint should be thinned up to a maximum of 5% with SPEKTRA thinner for anti-nicotine paint. The recommended interval between coats is between 8 to 24 hours. The paint is made on the basis of a dearomatized solvent and has a less intensive smell, yet we still do not recommend living in the room during renovation.
I would like to repaint the facade of our prefabricated house. I would like to know which of your products is the most suitable if the facade in the shaded side of the house tends to turn darker, which looks as some kind of mould.
I would like to repaint the facade of our prefabricated house. I would like to know which of your products is the most suitable if the facade in the shaded side of the house tends to turn darker, which looks as some kind of mould.
As the facade in question is described in only a few words, we shall assume your facade is equipped with thermal insulation with a finishing system that was mostly used on such objects 10 – 15 years ago.
Years ago, the problems you are describing appeared due to an excessive absorption of humidity, which now results in the occurrence of mould. Mould or algae are mostly found in northern, shady sides of buildings. In order to remedy the problem on the surface, mould and algae must first be destroyed, after which the facade should be painted with a suitable paint.
If mould is the consequence of an inadequate finishing coat, remedial treatment should be have a long-term result, however, if the origin of the problem is in the structure, remedial treatment will only last temporarily.
Remedial treatment system:
1. The facade surface where mould is present must entirely be coated with SPEKTRA biocide agent SANITOL. The use of the biocide agent is not required on the sides and on the spots where there is no infestation. Coat the surfaces also approx. 1.5 m outside the visibly infested surface. The SANITOL agent is to be thinned with water in a ratio of 1:4 In the event of a severe infestation, thin it less or use the concentrated product. Once the surface is dry, remove the mould with a brush. Repeat the process in the event of severe infestation. The SANITOL agent does not visually change mould.
2. Once the facade surface has been treated for mould, impregnate with 1 coat of SPEKTRA acrylic impregnation that has been thinned with water in a 1:3 ratio (12 hours of drying).
3. Paint with SPEKTRA acrylic facade paint to which SPEKTRA protection against mould ZP has been added. It is required to apply at least 2 coats.
Warning:
SPEKTRA SANITOL is to be used independently and is active only during drying time. Do not mix the agent with paint as this has no effect.
SPEKTRA protection against mould ZP is a preventive agent which is to be mixed with the paint and is active up to 4 years, depending on the conditions on the facade surface. 1 liter of the agent is sufficient for 10 – 15 liters of paint. When using this agent, it is not required to thin the paint with water.
Read the instructions in the technical information before using the products.
I painted metal doorframes with TESSAROL acrylic enamel, and walls with SPEKTRA LATEX paint. As I did not protect some parts of the doorframes well enough, I got some Spektra LATEX paint on them. How to clean them? I tried with water, but it does not work.
Based on what you wrote, the only possible solution is for you to remove the stains with sanding paper, and apply TESSAROL acrylic enamel once again. If the standard interior wall paint SPEKTRA Classic Plus had been used, you could easily clean the paint with water. Spektra LATEX paints are more high-quality coatings that can no longer be removed with water once dry.
The walls in the apartment (brick, plasterboard) are painted in very intense colours, and I am thinking of repainting them. As I can understand from your advice, I have to clean the walls first. Does this mean I have to remove the paint entirely and then level the wall, paint it white and only than repaint it with a different colour?
No matter what the shade it, it is never required to remove the paint, except in the case when it is peeling off. We recommend the following procedure to paint/cover strong shades:
1. Impregnate clean and solid surfaces with 1 coat of SPEKTRA acrylic impregnation – if the existing paints are washable or poorly absorbent, prior impregnation is not required.
2. Apply 2–3 coats of high-coverage white shade paint SPEKTRA Extra, or have the paint shaded in one of over 3000 shades at any of our selling points which have the HGMIX shading system
There is mould on the walls of the children’s bedroom. The room is on the north side of the house. What do you recommend?
Mould can occur as a result of moisture condensation on cold walls, which are the consequence of a poorly insulated building or structural mistakes, the so-called thermal bridges.
Suggested remedial treatment:
1. coat all infested surfaces with SPEKTRA biocide agent Sanitol,
2. impregnate the surfaces with SPEKTRA acrylic impregnation
3. treat the surfaces with SPEKTRA interior putty Termo in a thickness of 3–4 mm, sand them and apply 2 coats of SPEKTRA Termo Top interior wall paint.
Before starting work, we recommend reading the instructions on the use of the products, which are available also on our websites.
I would like to ask you for advice on how to renovate old windows. They were already painted with a TESSAROL paint 10-15 years ago, but it has already started to peel off. I would like to know how I should prepare the surface to achieve maximum adhesion and durability of the paint? I would also like to know which putty to use to level the damaged parts of the window?
The old paint which is peeling off must be completely removed. Level small dents with TESSAROL spatula putty, followed by TESSAROL primer for wood, which is used to even out the surface and prepare it to provide the best possible adhesion of TESSAROL enamel.
The surface preparation procedure is described in detail in the technical information that can be found on our websites.
TESSAROL professional enamel can be used as a finishing coating as well.
We have wooden windows at home, which were last painted approximately eight years ago with some kind of woodstain coating. There is quite a lot of damage on the windows now, and there are already small cracks on the exterior side. How should they be painted? Which lacquers and paints should we use?
As you are restoring windows that were painted with woodstain coatings, we suggest using BORI woodstain coatings as you probably do not want to cover the texture of the wood.
Restoring woodstain coatings is easier compared to the restoration of top coatings, as it is enough to slightly sand the coating before applying a new coat of woodstain.
As you said, the windows are extremely dried up, so you should use BORI thin-layer woodstain in the suitable shade as the first coat, in order to even out the colour shade.
Then apply 2 coats of BORI high-layer woodstain extra in the desired colour shade.
You cannot obtain a lighter shade than the existing one when using woodstains, so we usually recommend using a slightly lighter shade than the existing one for restoration. As the woodstain is transparent, each subsequent coat will make the shade a little darker. Each of the shades can also be mixed with a colourless woodstain which makes the shade lighter.
Technical information for both products is available on our website.
I would like to ask which coating I should use for the strip flooring I am planning for the bathroom?
IDEAL lacquers are used as floor protection coatings, they are walkable and can sustain all mechanical stress. Bathrooms are usually very humid spaces, dimensional movements of wood are increased and can result in cracking if there are significant changes in humidity. We recommend protecting the wood first using the colourless agent BORI impregnation with biocide W.
After installation, apply IDEAL 2K polyurethane parquet lacquer DS.
I bought an older apartment, and there is paint coming off the walls (peeling off) in some parts. As I do not want to remove all the paint, I would like to ask you for suggestions.
Unfortunately, the remedial treatment procedure is not easy for the situation you described.
If you want to have the work done in a high-quality manner, we recommend the following procedure:
1. remove poorly bonded layers of paint until reaching the healthy surface, and dust off the surface
2. impregnate with SPEKTRA acrylic impregnation
3. if required, smoothen the surfaces with SPEKTRA interior putty, and then sand and dust off the surfaces
4. apply 2 coats of SPEKTRA Classic Plus interior wall paint
If you only remove the paint that has already peeled off, the remaining paint could peel of upon contact with the new coat of paint. In this case, we therefore advise against a partial remedial treatment.
If you have questions, you can contact our technical-support team.
What is the paint’s expiry date?
Expiration dates can be different; from 1 to 5 years. The paints on the basis of water binders have a shorter expiration date compared to solvent-based paints. All our products are marked with an expiration date.
I have a new oak table which I intend to use outdoors, so it will be exposed to all weathering effects. Can you give me some advice on how to best protect it?
We assume you would like to preserve the natural appearance of wood, which can be achieved with BORI woodstains. BORI woodstains are made of transparent pigments which enhance the natural appearance of wood.
We assume the table has not been protected yet, so we recommend the following procedure:
As the first coat, we recommend applying BORI impregnation with biocide W, which offers wood preventive protection against insects, decay fungi and blue stain fungi. Impregnation is colourless, it penetrates deeply into the surface and does not form any film.
With high-wear surfaces, we recommend applying the desired shade of BORI thin-layer woodstain as an intermediate coating, especially with the purpose of achieving an even deep colouration. Then apply 2 coats of BORI high-layer woodstain UV extra, also in the desired colour shade. With normal-wear surfaces, wood should be coated with two coats of BORI high-layer woodstain without an intermediate coating.
The advantages of BORI high-layer woodstain are the fact that it does not crack, dimensional stability, and easy restoration. BORI high-layer woodstain prevents the penetration of water to the wooden fibres and thus prevents their swelling, and increases the water resistance of the coating. When a sufficient coat of woodstain is applied, it can be clearly seen that droplets are formed on the surface which then slip down the wooden surface; when these droplets are no longer formed, this means the woodstain has already decayed and is in need of restoration. In the case of your table, raindrops are collected on the surface as a result of its even surface, and you will therefore have to restore it more often, as the protection of wood strongly depends on the structure and location of wood.
If you want to preserve the natural appearance of wood, you can use BORI high-layer woodstain UV extra. It is a colourless woodstain which contains UV absorbers that protect wood against the effects of the sun. Apply 3 coats of BORI high-layer woodstain UV extra.
The best protection against weathering is provided by medium-intensity brown shades. Lighter shades are less resistant to UV rays, whereas very dark ones (ebony, palisander) cause increased thermal strain.
If you want to use a coating that makes the texture of the wood invisible, protect the table with TESSAROL enamels.
Our 45-year old house has wooden panelling, which is painted with a top coat that was mixed with linseed oil. The paint is quite damaged in several parts. Please advise which paint I should use to paint it
Before starting the renovation of the panelling, make sure to check the condition of the wooden parts of the panelling; if the wood has already decayed, you have to replace it and only then renovate the panelling. As you did not specify how old the coating is and how much grease there is, we are going to take this into consideration in the renovation process.
Recommended procedure:
1. Remove the decayed paint and sand the surface of the healthy old coating. If required, fix the spots where the paint was completely removed using TESSAROL spatula putty, and sand it once it is dry.
2. Thoroughly dust off the sanded surface and wipe it with a thinner-soaked cloth in order to remove the grease, if required. Then apply 1 coat of TESSAROL primer for wood.
3. After approximately 24 hours, slightly sand the dried paint and then apply 2 coats of TESSAROL enamel in the desired shade.
For more information, you can contact our technical-support service.
We would like to paint the floor in our apartment with SPEKTRA 2K epoxy paint for concrete. How durable is the material itself? Is it resistant to dog claws and does it change colour when exposed to sunlight?
If you have decided to paint the concrete paving, epoxy coatings are definitely the most resistant ones, however, it can hardly be expected that no traces will be left on the surface from sand abrasion, claws or other sharp objects.
Epoxy coatings are definitely more solid than parquet lacquers and classic paints for concrete. They are traffic suitable surfaces, resistant to oils and mild acids.
If you wish to use SPEKTRA 2K epoxy paint for concrete, you can choose one of the four available shades.
Warning:
The surface for both coatings must be dry (a maximum of 3% of grease in the concrete), solid, and slightly sanded and dusted off beforehand. The application is then carried out according to the guidelines from the technical information.
I would like to age a spruce beam. Do you have a product that would enable me to do that?
Our sales programme offers BORI woodstain coatings which can be prepared in different colour shades with out HGMIX colour mixing system.
Aged wood is usually also jagged, and unfortunately it is not possible to achieve this effect with out coatings. Late wood grows in the winter, grows more slowly, is more solid and less porous. When looking at the cross section of a tree, we see it as the annual growth rings. Early wood grows in the summer, it grows fast, is softer and more porous. When looking at the cross section of a tree, we see it as the lighter wood between two annual rings. Early wood is smoother and cannot be aged only by applying woodstain, but must be jagged (by brushing) in order to achieve the old wood appearance.
I am setting up a wooden business facility made of spruce wood in our garden, dimensioned 9 x 6 m. The roof will be covered with dark brick in the colour of anthracite. How should we paint the exterior wooden part? We like the BORI no. 1 shade, or maybe one of the shades of red.
Shade no. 1 is colourless and we do not recommend using it as an independent coating for a high-quality protection of weathering-exposed wooden surfaces. As it is a big facility, we recommend using woodstain coatings of a medium intensity shade, which provide the best protection against UV rays and do not have a significant effect on the heating of wood due to sunlight. If you want to preserve the natural shade of wood, you can use BORI high-layer woodstain UV extra which protects light wood against graying.
First apply one coat of BORI impregnation with biocide W, followed by three coats of BORI high-layer woodstain UV extra or two coats of BORI high-layer woodstain in the desired shade.
I would like to paint the concrete wall surrounding the house, which has never been painted. There is an iron fence on this wall.
Painting a concrete fence is a delicate job, as only few concrete fence structures have waterproofing that would prevent the influence of capillary moisture on the concrete structure. The lines below describe two different treatment systems.
Preparation of surface:
Sand the surface with sanding paper with grain size 80. Remove dust and poorly bonded particles. Check the moisture in the concrete which must not exceed a volume of 3%.
Painting concrete without waterproofing:
1x SPEKTRA silicone impregnation
2 – 3x SPEKTRA silicone facade paint
Painting concrete with thermal insulation:
1x SPEKTRA deep impregnation
2 – 3x SPEKTRA paint for concrete
As soft water is the major enemy of coatings, horizontal surfaces must be inclined to enable the out-flow of water and prevent its collection.
Coloured concrete must be restored very frequently. A partial renovation can be carried out each year, whereas a comprehensive one depends on the condition of the concrete, the humidity and other factors.
I would like to have as few ceramic tiles as possible in my bathroom, so I am thinking of painting two walls in the shower with your LATEX paint. What do you think about this decision? Is the paint sufficiently water-proof to prevent problems later on?
Painting the bathroom can be a very original solution, but we must take into consideration that paint is not ceramics after all, especially in terms of maintenance. The problematic parts are especially the joints between the tub, the sink, the shower cabin, etc. Most problems occur when painting surfaces on which there is a frequent flow of water, as joints with other surfaces are the weak link where water gets under the coating and starts lifting it. All joints must be sealed with elastic putties which enable subsequent painting.
Surfaces can be selected in the matt, semi-matt or glossy version. For parts where there is water flow, we recommend glossy coatings which prevent the penetration of water under the surface and are easier to clean.
Mistakes are most frequently made with water supply valves, where water gets behind the flange and gets absorbed into the wall where it starts to lift the coating. The same is likely to happen on the joint between the tub and the wall. The biggest problem occurs when water causes the collection of limestone on the surface of the paint, which might damage the water film and the shade upon cleaning.
Recommendation:
Option A
Even if you are not a fan of ceramics, we recommend using it creatively at least for the narrow part around the bath tub and the sink, and complement it with the same shade as the wall. For wall surfaces, we recommend the following procedure:
1. impregnate with SPEKTRA acrylic impregnation, 1x
2. smoothen the surfaces with SPEKTRA interior putty, 2 – 3x, and sand with sanding paper with grain size 180
3. install elastic joints between wall and other surfaces
4. Paint with SPEKTRA LATEX SEMI-MATT 2 – 3x (depending on the shade)
Option B
If you wish to have the paint over the entire surface, we recommend the following procedure:
1. impregnate with SPEKTRA acrylic impregnation, 1x
2. smoothen the surfaces with SPEKTRA interior putty, 2 – 3x, and sand with sanding paper with grain size 180
3. install elastic joints between wall and other surfaces
4. paint with SPEKTRA LATEX MATT 2 – 3x (depending on the shade)
5. lacquer with SPEKTRA DOMFLOK LACQUER SEMI-MATT, 1x
In the case of stronger shades (such as black or bordeaux), traces of limestone tend to appear quickly and are difficult to remove, so we recommend wiping wet surfaces with a wet cloth after showering. The interval for the renovation of painted surfaces depends on how you maintain and treat the coating.
We do not recommend using such coatings for shower cabins and surfaces around the bathtub.
I would like to know whether there is a water-based paint for painting plastics? Is it necessary to clean the plastics first?
Plastic is a very challenging material to paint, as most coatings do not have good adhesion to plastics. Different types of plastics have a different chemical composition, which makes it even more difficult to predict the final result.
For hard PVC (windows), we have developed a solvent-based primer which is marketed under the name TESSAROL universal primer UNI. Unfortunately, you have not given us enough information about the material itself in order for us to guarantee good adhesion of the paint beforehand.
I have recently decided to renovate the living room. I have strip flooring on the ceiling, approximately 35 years old, in dark brown colour. I would like the ceiling to be white. Which product should I use?
We recommend using TESSAROL acrylic enamel for protection of the wooden panelling. TESSAROL acrylic enamel is an enamel on the basis of water binders which does not yellow with time, dries quickly and has no unpleasant odour. If required, we thin it with water, which can also be used to clean the tools after use.
Before applying the paint, the wooden cladding surface must be adequately prepared. First, clean the surface of dust and other impurities, remove any resin with NITRO thinner, and sand the wood with fine sanding paper in order to improve adhesion of the paint onto the surface.
You can cover the dark shade of the wooden cladding only by applying a top coat; First, apply 1 – 2 coats of TESSAROL acrylic primer for wood, which dries in approximately two hours, and wait 4 – 6 hours between the two coats. We recommend sanding between individual layers. Then apply 2 coats of TESSAROL acrylic enamel in the white shade, which dries in approximately three hours, and wait 8 – 10 hours between the two coats. As a result of the application of the primer, the texture of the wood will not be visible after painting.
The following working conditions are very important:
• the temperature of the air, the paint and the surface must be at least 8 °C, otherwise the film will cannot form
• air humidity must not exceed 80% in order to obtain a well-cured coating film
• coatings can be applied with a brush made of synthetic fibres or with a microfibre roller
I used a white TESSAROL paint two weeks ago to paint a window frame. Since I was not careful enough, I painted the glass as well in several spots. Could you please help and advise how I can remove the paint stains?
Once the paint is dry, it is almost impossible to remove it. It would probably be possible to remove it mechanically, but that would damage the glass. Try NITRO thinner which can slightly dissolve the paint. However, it is hard to say what consequences this will leave on the glass.
How often is it necessary to refresh the paintwork on the metal structure of a fence that was painted with TESSAROL?
There are several factors influencing the durability of the coating on the iron fence.
1. exposure of the fence to weathering
2. selection of the coating system and the number of coats
3. a suitable preparation of the surface beforehand (removal of impurities and rust)
The paintwork must be renovated as soon as you notice there is rust or that the coating is peeling off. If you only want to refresh the shade, you can also apply it earlier.
Shade refreshment procedure:
Slightly sand the old coating and apply 1 coat of TESSAROL enamel.
Remedial treatment procedure for coatings that have already peeled off:
Remove the rust and apply 1 coat of TESSAROL primer for iron and 2 coats of TESSAROL enamel onto a clean surface.
The walls in our apartment are yellow because of smoking. What would you recommend as remedial treatment?
The walls in our apartment are yellow because of smoking. What would you recommend as remedial treatment?
We are going to put a wooden fence on the southern side of the balcony, and paint it ourselves. What is the painting procedure, as the fence is highly exposed to rain, wind, strong direct sunlight, and also snow and the cold bora wind in the winter?
As it is a wooden fence, we assume you wish to maintain the texture of the wood visible, so we would recommend using BORI woodstain coatings.
First, sand the surface slightly and remove the grease with NITRO thinner.
BORI impregnation with biocide W offers wood preventive protection against insects, decay fungi and blue stain fungi. Impregnation is colourless, it penetrates deeply into the surface and does not form any film.
With new, high-wear surfaces, we recommend applying one coat of BORI thin-layer woodstain in the desired shade as an intermediate coating, especially with the purpose of achieving an even deep colouration.
Then apply two coats of BORI high-layer woodstain, also in the desired colour shade.
Combining BORI impregnation with biocide W and BORI high-layer woodstain is not recommended, as this decreases the concentration of biocide in the woodstain. Furthermore, this decreases the penetration of the woodstain, meaning wood will not have deep impregnation.
The characteristics of BORI high-layer woodstain are the fact that it provides dimensional stability and easy restoration. It prevents the penetration of water to the wooden fibres and thus prevents their swelling, and increases the water resistance of the coating.
BORI high-layer woodstain protects wood from the effects of the sun (lignin, which is an important component of wood, decomposes when exposed to UV rays).
In order to preserve the original shade, we recommend using a slightly lighter shade for restoration, or mixing the same shade with a colourless one in a 1:1 ratio.
There are several factors affecting the durability of the protection, including the location and structure of the object being painted. In your case, more frequent restoration will definitely be required.
The consumption of the coating depends on the type of wood, its absorbency and level of wood treatment; usually, however, 1 liter of woodstain covers 10 – 12 m2 in one coat.
Discover Eguchi Iwao
Learn More