FAQ's
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I would like to ask you for advice on how to renovate old windows. They were already painted with a TESSAROL paint 10-15 years ago, but it has already started to peel off. I would like to know how I should prepare the surface to achieve maximum adhesion and durability of the paint? I would also like to know which putty to use to level the damaged parts of the window?
The old paint which is peeling off must be completely removed. Level small dents with TESSAROL spatula putty, followed by TESSAROL primer for wood, which is used to even out the surface and prepare it to provide the best possible adhesion of TESSAROL enamel.
The surface preparation procedure is described in detail in the technical information that can be found on our websites.
TESSAROL professional enamel can be used as a finishing coating as well.
We have wooden windows at home, which were last painted approximately eight years ago with some kind of woodstain coating. There is quite a lot of damage on the windows now, and there are already small cracks on the exterior side. How should they be painted? Which lacquers and paints should we use?
As you are restoring windows that were painted with woodstain coatings, we suggest using BORI woodstain coatings as you probably do not want to cover the texture of the wood.
Restoring woodstain coatings is easier compared to the restoration of top coatings, as it is enough to slightly sand the coating before applying a new coat of woodstain.
As you said, the windows are extremely dried up, so you should use BORI thin-layer woodstain in the suitable shade as the first coat, in order to even out the colour shade.
Then apply 2 coats of BORI high-layer woodstain extra in the desired colour shade.
You cannot obtain a lighter shade than the existing one when using woodstains, so we usually recommend using a slightly lighter shade than the existing one for restoration. As the woodstain is transparent, each subsequent coat will make the shade a little darker. Each of the shades can also be mixed with a colourless woodstain which makes the shade lighter.
Technical information for both products is available on our website.
I have a new oak table which I intend to use outdoors, so it will be exposed to all weathering effects. Can you give me some advice on how to best protect it?
We assume you would like to preserve the natural appearance of wood, which can be achieved with BORI woodstains. BORI woodstains are made of transparent pigments which enhance the natural appearance of wood.
We assume the table has not been protected yet, so we recommend the following procedure:
As the first coat, we recommend applying BORI impregnation with biocide W, which offers wood preventive protection against insects, decay fungi and blue stain fungi. Impregnation is colourless, it penetrates deeply into the surface and does not form any film.
With high-wear surfaces, we recommend applying the desired shade of BORI thin-layer woodstain as an intermediate coating, especially with the purpose of achieving an even deep colouration. Then apply 2 coats of BORI high-layer woodstain UV extra, also in the desired colour shade. With normal-wear surfaces, wood should be coated with two coats of BORI high-layer woodstain without an intermediate coating.
The advantages of BORI high-layer woodstain are the fact that it does not crack, dimensional stability, and easy restoration. BORI high-layer woodstain prevents the penetration of water to the wooden fibres and thus prevents their swelling, and increases the water resistance of the coating. When a sufficient coat of woodstain is applied, it can be clearly seen that droplets are formed on the surface which then slip down the wooden surface; when these droplets are no longer formed, this means the woodstain has already decayed and is in need of restoration. In the case of your table, raindrops are collected on the surface as a result of its even surface, and you will therefore have to restore it more often, as the protection of wood strongly depends on the structure and location of wood.
If you want to preserve the natural appearance of wood, you can use BORI high-layer woodstain UV extra. It is a colourless woodstain which contains UV absorbers that protect wood against the effects of the sun. Apply 3 coats of BORI high-layer woodstain UV extra.
The best protection against weathering is provided by medium-intensity brown shades. Lighter shades are less resistant to UV rays, whereas very dark ones (ebony, palisander) cause increased thermal strain.
If you want to use a coating that makes the texture of the wood invisible, protect the table with TESSAROL enamels.
Our 45-year old house has wooden panelling, which is painted with a top coat that was mixed with linseed oil. The paint is quite damaged in several parts. Please advise which paint I should use to paint it
Before starting the renovation of the panelling, make sure to check the condition of the wooden parts of the panelling; if the wood has already decayed, you have to replace it and only then renovate the panelling. As you did not specify how old the coating is and how much grease there is, we are going to take this into consideration in the renovation process.
Recommended procedure:
1. Remove the decayed paint and sand the surface of the healthy old coating. If required, fix the spots where the paint was completely removed using TESSAROL spatula putty, and sand it once it is dry.
2. Thoroughly dust off the sanded surface and wipe it with a thinner-soaked cloth in order to remove the grease, if required. Then apply 1 coat of TESSAROL primer for wood.
3. After approximately 24 hours, slightly sand the dried paint and then apply 2 coats of TESSAROL enamel in the desired shade.
For more information, you can contact our technical-support service.
I would like to age a spruce beam. Do you have a product that would enable me to do that?
Our sales programme offers BORI woodstain coatings which can be prepared in different colour shades with out HGMIX colour mixing system.
Aged wood is usually also jagged, and unfortunately it is not possible to achieve this effect with out coatings. Late wood grows in the winter, grows more slowly, is more solid and less porous. When looking at the cross section of a tree, we see it as the annual growth rings. Early wood grows in the summer, it grows fast, is softer and more porous. When looking at the cross section of a tree, we see it as the lighter wood between two annual rings. Early wood is smoother and cannot be aged only by applying woodstain, but must be jagged (by brushing) in order to achieve the old wood appearance.
I am setting up a wooden business facility made of spruce wood in our garden, dimensioned 9 x 6 m. The roof will be covered with dark brick in the colour of anthracite. How should we paint the exterior wooden part? We like the BORI no. 1 shade, or maybe one of the shades of red.
Shade no. 1 is colourless and we do not recommend using it as an independent coating for a high-quality protection of weathering-exposed wooden surfaces. As it is a big facility, we recommend using woodstain coatings of a medium intensity shade, which provide the best protection against UV rays and do not have a significant effect on the heating of wood due to sunlight. If you want to preserve the natural shade of wood, you can use BORI high-layer woodstain UV extra which protects light wood against graying.
First apply one coat of BORI impregnation with biocide W, followed by three coats of BORI high-layer woodstain UV extra or two coats of BORI high-layer woodstain in the desired shade.
I have recently decided to renovate the living room. I have strip flooring on the ceiling, approximately 35 years old, in dark brown colour. I would like the ceiling to be white. Which product should I use?
We recommend using TESSAROL acrylic enamel for protection of the wooden panelling. TESSAROL acrylic enamel is an enamel on the basis of water binders which does not yellow with time, dries quickly and has no unpleasant odour. If required, we thin it with water, which can also be used to clean the tools after use.
Before applying the paint, the wooden cladding surface must be adequately prepared. First, clean the surface of dust and other impurities, remove any resin with NITRO thinner, and sand the wood with fine sanding paper in order to improve adhesion of the paint onto the surface.
You can cover the dark shade of the wooden cladding only by applying a top coat; First, apply 1 – 2 coats of TESSAROL acrylic primer for wood, which dries in approximately two hours, and wait 4 – 6 hours between the two coats. We recommend sanding between individual layers. Then apply 2 coats of TESSAROL acrylic enamel in the white shade, which dries in approximately three hours, and wait 8 – 10 hours between the two coats. As a result of the application of the primer, the texture of the wood will not be visible after painting.
The following working conditions are very important:
• the temperature of the air, the paint and the surface must be at least 8 °C, otherwise the film will cannot form
• air humidity must not exceed 80% in order to obtain a well-cured coating film
• coatings can be applied with a brush made of synthetic fibres or with a microfibre roller
We are going to put a wooden fence on the southern side of the balcony, and paint it ourselves. What is the painting procedure, as the fence is highly exposed to rain, wind, strong direct sunlight, and also snow and the cold bora wind in the winter?
As it is a wooden fence, we assume you wish to maintain the texture of the wood visible, so we would recommend using BORI woodstain coatings.
First, sand the surface slightly and remove the grease with NITRO thinner.
BORI impregnation with biocide W offers wood preventive protection against insects, decay fungi and blue stain fungi. Impregnation is colourless, it penetrates deeply into the surface and does not form any film.
With new, high-wear surfaces, we recommend applying one coat of BORI thin-layer woodstain in the desired shade as an intermediate coating, especially with the purpose of achieving an even deep colouration.
Then apply two coats of BORI high-layer woodstain, also in the desired colour shade.
Combining BORI impregnation with biocide W and BORI high-layer woodstain is not recommended, as this decreases the concentration of biocide in the woodstain. Furthermore, this decreases the penetration of the woodstain, meaning wood will not have deep impregnation.
The characteristics of BORI high-layer woodstain are the fact that it provides dimensional stability and easy restoration. It prevents the penetration of water to the wooden fibres and thus prevents their swelling, and increases the water resistance of the coating.
BORI high-layer woodstain protects wood from the effects of the sun (lignin, which is an important component of wood, decomposes when exposed to UV rays).
In order to preserve the original shade, we recommend using a slightly lighter shade for restoration, or mixing the same shade with a colourless one in a 1:1 ratio.
There are several factors affecting the durability of the protection, including the location and structure of the object being painted. In your case, more frequent restoration will definitely be required.
The consumption of the coating depends on the type of wood, its absorbency and level of wood treatment; usually, however, 1 liter of woodstain covers 10 – 12 m2 in one coat.